Month: April 2023

Gretchen’s table: Chilaquiles verde is a magical Mexican breakfast

Updated
3 hrs ago

For a food writer, one of the best things about going on vacation is not having to cook every day, all day. Then again, because your world revolves around testing recipes, vacation also can mean work because if you go somewhere new and exciting, you’re bound to eat a dish or two you’ll want to re-create when you get home.

At least that’s what happened to me on a recent trip to Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Midweek during our trip, my husband and I braved the snowy Teton Pass into Idaho in my sister’s SUV so we could spend a few hours snowshoeing at the Grand Targhee Resort. Famished after clomping atop the (very deep and very packed!) snow, we stopped at The Provision Kitchen in the tiny town of Driggs for a little well-earned apres ski before heading back up the pass to Wyoming. I love anything with salsa verde, so the restaurant’s chilaquiles immediately caught my eye.

If you’ve never had it, chilaquiles is a traditional Mexican breakfast offering in which totopos — corn tortillas that have been cut into quarters and fried — are smothered in green or red salsa, then topped with garnishes such as queso fresco, black or refried beans, onion, fried or scrambled eggs and sliced avocado. It’s hearty, incredibly flavorful, pretty to look at and for the cook, super easy to make.

A cross between nachos and enchiladas, the dish is thought to date back to the time of the Aztecs, though an actual recipe didn’t appear until 1898, in Encarnacion Pinedo’s “The Spanish Cook.” It’s a great way to use up leftover tortillas or tortilla chips that would otherwise go to waste.

Served at The Provision Kitchen as a breakfast dish, mine came with a couple crispy pieces of bacon and an over-easy egg. Chorizo or pulled chicken or pork or beef barbacoa are other common toppings.

If you prefer red sauce, substitute about 1 1/2 pounds of tomatoes for the tomatillos, and add 1 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable broth after they’ve been boiled and pureed/ Then fry it in a couple tablespoons of oil for a few minutes to thicken.

CHILAQUILES VERDE

PG tested

For sauce

• 1 pound tomatillos, husked and rinsed (about 10 medium-large)
• 2 or 3 jalapeños, stemmed and seeded
• 1/2 medium white onion
• Large handful fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic
• Juice 1/2 lime
• Kosher salt

For bowl

• 12 corn tortillas
• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil, for frying
• For serving
• 1/2 cup canned black beans, drained and rinsed
• 1/4 cup sour cream, thinned with a little lime juice
• 1/2 cup queso fresco
• 4 fried or sunny-side up eggs
• 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
• 8 sliced crispy fried bacon
• 1 avocado, seeded and thinly sliced

Make sauce: Place tomatillos, jalapeños and onion in a large saucepan or Dutch oven and add enough water to completely cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to low and simmer until vegetables are cooked through and soft, around 8-10 minutes. (Tomatillos will change color from bright to pale green.)

Transfer tomatillos, jalapeños and onion to a blender using a slotted spoon. Add cilantro, garlic, lime juice, and a generous pinch of salt and blend until smooth. Taste and add more salt or lime juice if desired. Set aside.

Stack tortillas on top of each other and cut into eighths. Heat oil in a large frying pan, then fry wedges until brown and crispy. Drain on a paper towel-lined plate, then place back into the pan.

Pour salsa verde on top, and toss gently to combine.

Portion tortillas into four bowls and top each with equal amounts of black beans. Drizzle sour cream on top, followed by equal amounts of queso fresco. Garnish each bowl with a fried or sunny-side up egg, sliced onion, 2 slices bacon and sliced avocado.

Serve immediately.

Serves 4.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

5 recipes to usher in spring brunch season

Updated
3 hrs ago

After a winter of heavy dishes, it’s time to lighten things up with herb-filled quiches, frittatas and citrus.

Since Mother Nature missed the memo that spring has arrived, it’s time to take matters into our own hands. And there’s no better place to usher in a new season than the kitchen.

Bid a fond farewell to the heavy stews and sauce-laden comfort food that got us through a trying winter. We need to lighten up.

Easter was just the first occasion of a spring filled with special occasions — bridal showers, Mother’s Day, graduations — and brunch is one of our favorite ways to celebrate. While we always have our go-to dishes (is it even a brunch without ham?), we’re also ready to try something new.

Fresh herbs take center stage in frittatas and quiches, while peas and asparagus remain a match made in culinary heaven. Both kids and adults will enjoy vegetable-filled egg bites, which you can and should tailor to your own tastes, and adding bacon to deviled eggs will make them fly off the plate even faster than usual. Because we’re not quite ready to entirely do away with comfort food, start the morning out with orange-kissed sweet rolls that appeal to our nostalgic side, but without the stress of working with yeast dough. We’re feeling better already.

Add bright-colored napkins and a bouquet of tulips, daffodils or daisies, and it’s officially spring. If not outside, at least in your kitchen.

CRAB AND BOURSIN CHEESE QUICHE

Serves 6.

In “For the Love of Seafood” (Countryman, 2023), author Karista Bennett writes: “Over the years, I’ve developed a lot of quiche recipes. My preferred ratio for a creamy quiche custard is four eggs to 1 3/4 cups heavy cream, using a deep-dish pie plate (about 2 inches deep). If the pie plate is a standard pie plate (1 1/2 inches deep), reduce the heavy cream to 1 1/2 cups. It’ll still be delicious!” Feel free to substitute your own pie crust recipe, or a store-bought one if time is of the essence.

For the pie crust:

• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold, cut into cubes
• 1/3 cup ice-cold water

For the quiche filling:

• 6 ounces crabmeat
• 1 (5.2-ounce) pkg. garlic and fine herb boursin cheese
• 1 tablespoons chopped fresh chives, plus more for garnish
• 4 large eggs
• 1 3/4 cups heavy cream
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions

To prepare the pie crust: Combine the flour, salt and butter in a food processor and pulse until it forms crumbles. Then, while pulsing, add the cold water and pulse until the dough comes together. It’ll be a bit shaggy. Roll out the dough on a floured surface and form a 10- to 11-inch disk. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least an hour.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Roll out the chilled dough on a floured surface, to about a 12-inch round that is 1/8 inch thick. Fold the dough in half and place it in a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate, placing the fold in the center and then unfolding the dough. Press the dough down into the pie plate, trim the edges, and then pinch to form a pretty edge.

To prepare the quiche filling: Squeeze out all the excess liquid from the crab and dry with a paper towel. Then, layer into the bottom of the pie crust. Next, layer the boursin cheese over the crab and sprinkle with the chopped chives.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, heavy cream, salt and pepper and then pour it over the crab and cheese. Put the pie plate on a baking sheet and place it in the oven. Bake for about 45 minutes, or until the center is set. If needed, place a piece of parchment over the quiche to keep the crust from getting too brown.

Once the quiche is done, remove from the oven, garnish with additional chives and let sit for about 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

HERB FRITTATA

Serves 8.

The basic difference between an omelet and a frittata is the latter is cooked slowly over low heat — sometimes even baked in the oven — while an omelet is cooked quickly over medium or medium-high heat. Omelets are usually served immediately so they retain their heat, while frittatas are often served at room temperature. This is a great dish to make ahead for brunch. From “Italy on a Plate,” by Susan Gravely (Vietri Publishing, 2023).

• 4 small red potatoes
• 10 eggs
• 1 1/4 cups mixed finely chopped herbs, such as dandelion greens, thyme, basil, oregano or Italian parsley, plus more for garnish
• 1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
• 1/4 cup finely chopped onion
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/4 cup olive oil, or more as needed to cover the bottom of the pan
• Seasonal edible flowers, for optional garnish

Directions

Place the potatoes in a small pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook for 10 minutes until fork-tender. Drain and set aside to cool.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with a fork. Add the chopped herbs, cheese, onion, salt and pepper and stir to combine.

Cut the cooled potatoes into 1-inch chunks. Add to eggs and stir gently to combine.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat, making sure there is enough oil to just cover the entire bottom of the pan. Add the egg mixture and cook 4 to 5 minutes until the frittata thickens. Use a spatula to loosen around the edge. If you are good at flipping frittatas, turn the frittata over onto the other side and let cook for another 3 to 4 minutes until set. If not, you can finish using the oven broiler, cooking 3 to 4 minutes until the eggs are set.

Place the frittata on a serving plate or wooden cutting board and cut into wedges. Garnish the center with a bunch of herbs and seasonal flowers.

MASALA EGG BITES

Serves 6.

These fluffy mini frittatas or egg muffins are spiced with a simple combination of ginger, green chile and turmeric to take the ubiquitous coffee-chain egg bites up a notch and are a fun addition to any brunch spread (or breakfast on the go). Mix up the toppings as you like — use spinach, roasted red pepper, goat cheese, or any other veggies or cheeses you like. If you don’t have a mini-muffin pan, use a regular muffin pan and increase the baking time by 5 minutes. From “The Vegetarian Reset,” by Vasudha Viswanath (Collective, 2023).

• 4 eggs
• 1/2 cup full-fat cottage cheese
• 1/2 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
• 1/2 cup diced red bell pepper
• 2 tablespoons diced onion
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• 1 jalapeño pepper or Thai chile, chopped
• 1 teaspoon grated ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 24-cup mini-muffin pan with nonstick spray.

Combine the eggs, cottage cheese and Cheddar cheese in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. The mixture will be the consistency of heavy cream. Add the red pepper, onion, cilantro, chiles, ginger, turmeric and salt to the blender and pulse a couple of times until evenly distributed (don’t blend the toppings smooth, just distribute them evenly throughout the mixture).

Pour the mixture into the prepared mini-muffin pan, filling each muffin cup no more than two-thirds full. Bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown on top. Let cool in the pan (they will deflate a bit). Remove from the pan and serve.

To make ahead: Bake as directed and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Reheat for 20 seconds in the microwave. To freeze, wrap them individually in plastic wrap to prevent them from sticking together, and freeze for up to 1 month.

WHIPPED RICOTTA WITH PEAS AND ASPARAGUS

Serves 4.

This pretty salad works beautifully as a starter, arranged on individual plates, but is equally stunning on a platter served family-style. Whipping the ricotta gives it a smoother, lighter and creamier texture. You can also use half feta or rindless goat cheese if you prefer a bolder, saltier flavor. From “LEON Big Salads,” by Rebecca Seal (Conran, 2023).

• 1 1/4 cups ricotta
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
• 1 tablespoon milk
• Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
• Olive oil, for cooking
• 20 asparagus spears, trimmed
• 1/2 cup frozen peas
• Handful of pea shoots or arugula
• Parmesan cheese, grated, for garnish
• Leaves from a sprig of fresh mint, torn if large
• Freshly squeezed lemon juice, to serve

Directions

Place the ricotta, extra-virgin olive oil and milk into the bowl of a blender or small food processor and blitz until smooth and creamy. (You can also whisk by hand.) Stir in the salt, pepper, parsley and chives.

Heat a little olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and add the asparagus and the peas. Sauté for a couple of minutes until the asparagus just begins to brown, shuffling it all around in the pan. Remove from the heat.

Divide the whipped ricotta mixture between four starter plates and use the back of a spoon to spread it out over the plate. Arrange the asparagus on top and scatter over the peas, then finish with the pea shoots or arugula, plus the Parmesan, mint, a generous squeeze of lemon juice, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and final twist of salt and pepper. Serve.

ORANGE ROLLS

Makes 8 rolls.

Inspired by orange roll recipes from the 1910s and ’20s, these citrusy cinnamon rolls have an old-fashioned feel. Perfumed with fresh orange zest in the base, filling and glaze, they come together in less than an hour, thanks to a fluffy, tender dough that doesn’t require yeast. To help the biscuit-dough base end up as soft as any yeasted treat, cream cheese and extra milk are mixed into the dry ingredients. But the most important part of these rolls is the fresh orange zest, plump with fragrant, flavorful citrus oils. From the New York Times’ Genevieve Ko.

For the dough:

• 1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1 orange
• 1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
• 1 3/4 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon fine salt
• 3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus softened butter for the pan
• 2 tablespoons cold cream cheese
• 2/3 cup whole milk or half-and-half

For the filling:

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon or a combination of cinnamon and cardamom
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, very soft
• For the (optional) glaze:
• 1/4 cup cream cheese, room temperature
• 3 tablespoons powdered sugar, or to taste
• 1 orange

Directions

To prepare the dough: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place the brown sugar in a small bowl and zest the orange directly over it. Gently rub the zest into the sugar and transfer 2 tablespoons to a large bowl to use for the dough. Save the rest of the orange sugar for the filling.

Add the flour, baking powder and salt to the large bowl and whisk well. Add the butter and cream cheese, and smash and rub them into the dry ingredients with your fingertips until they’re fully incorporated and the mixture resembles crumbs.

Add the milk all at once and stir gently with a fork until the dough comes together and no dry bits remain. Freeze while you prepare the pan and filling. Very generously butter the bottom and sides of an 8-inch round cake pan or ovenproof skillet.

To prepare the filling: Mix the cinnamon (and cardamom, if using) into the reserved orange sugar.

Scrape the dough onto a well-floured work surface. Use a floured rolling pin to roll the dough or flour your hands to pat the dough into a 12-by-5-inch rectangle. It may be sticky, but that’s OK. Just flour the dough enough to be able to shape it.

To fill the dough, spread the very soft butter evenly over the surface, then sprinkle the orange sugar on top. Starting with one long side of the dough, roll it up into a 12-inch-long log. If it’s stuck to the surface, scrape it up as you roll it, using a bench scraper or stiff spatula.

Use a serrated knife to cut the log with a sawing motion into 8 (1 1/2-inch-thick) slices. Place a slice in the center of the pan, then space the remaining slices 1/2-inch apart around it. At this point, the rolls can be covered and chilled for up to 2 days before baking directly from the refrigerator.

Bake until golden on top, 23 to 25 minutes. You don’t want to overbake, but also want the dough to be cooked through. When you press the top, the roll shouldn’t sink but spring back just a little.

To prepare the glaze: While the rolls are baking, place the cream cheese and the powdered sugar in a bowl. Zest the orange directly over the sugar, then mix and smush together until smooth. Squeeze in 2 tablespoons orange juice and mix well. The glaze should be a bit thick because it will loosen when it hits the hot rolls. Taste and add more powdered sugar if you’d like. Stir in more juice if it’s too stiff.

Let the rolls cool for 5 minutes in the pan, then spread the glaze all over them. Cool a bit longer to serve hot or warm.