Chicken schnitzel, idli and cookies: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for cooking with semolina | Food

Chicken schnitzel, idli and cookies: Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipes for cooking with semolina | Food

Many of my favourite comfort foods are connected by one ingredient: semolina. Whether it’s the gnocchi my Italian grandmother made for us or the syrup-drenched cakes, dumplings and couscous of my childhood in Jerusalem, it’s often semolina at work. Its texture is distinct: somehow glutinous and gritty in the likes of those gnocchi, but also light and sandy in cakes and cookies. Semolina, which is halfway between wheat and flour, is also a really effective way to bring a welcome crunch to two other great comfort foods: roast potatoes, which benefit hugely from being rolled in a little semolina after they’ve been parboiled, and chicken schnitzel. In fact, it’s a bit of a miracle ingredient.

Mustardy chicken schnitzel with braised peas and pea salsa (pictured top)

Here, semolina makes a light and crisp crust for a comforting schnitzel. Both the braised peas and the pea salsa can be made the day before.

Prep 15 min
Cook 45 min
Serves 2

For the salsa
90ml olive oil
1 tsp black mustard seeds
80g frozen peas or petit pois
, plus 150g extra for the braised peas
Fine sea salt and black pepper

For the braised peas
60g unsalted butter
2 large shallots
, peeled, halved and roughly chopped (110g)
1 baby gem lettuce, cut into 6 wedges
2 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and roughly chopped
50g plain flour, plus 1 tbsp extra
200ml chicken stock

For the schnitzels
150g fine semolina
1 medium egg
, beaten
2 tbsp dijon mustard, plus extra to serve
2 tbsp wasabi paste
2 chicken breasts, skinless (400g)
10g mint leaves, roughly chopped

Put two teaspoons of oil in a medium saucepan on a medium heat, add the mustard seeds and cook for two minutes, until they start to pop. Take off the heat, stir in 80g of the peas and leave to cook in the residual heat. Transfer to a mortar, add a quarter-teaspoon of salt, then crush gently and put to one side.

For the braised peas, return the saucepan to a medium heat and add the butter. Once it’s melted, add the shallots and half a teaspoon of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, for two minutes, until slightly softened. Add the remaining 150g peas, the lettuce wedges and the anchovies, and cook for a further five minutes, until softened. Add a tablespoon of flour, stir for a minute, then pour in the stock. Turn the heat to low and leave to braise for 10 minutes, until nicely thickened. Set aside.

Put the remaining 80ml olive oil in a large frying pan on a medium-high heat. Put the flour and semolina in two separate wide, shallow bowls. Mix the egg, mustard and wasabi in a third shallow bowl. Put the chicken breasts on a board and, using a meat mallet (or the base of a small heavy saucepan), gently bash them to about 2cm thick. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, then, one by one, coat first in flour, then in the egg mixture and finally in the semolina, shaking off the excess as you go.

Carefully lay one piece of chicken in the hot oil, fry, turning once halfway, for three minutes, until nicely browned all over. Transfer to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain, then and repeat with the second coated chicken breast. Leave to rest for a minute or two, then cut each breast in half.

Stir two-thirds of the mint into the braised peas, then pour into a lipped platter and arrange the chicken on top. Garnish with the salsa, sprinkle over the remaining mint and serve with extra dijon mustard on the side.

Semolina idli with coconut chutney and spiced oil

Yotam Ottolenghi’s semolina idli with coconut chutney and spiced oil.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s semolina idli with coconut chutney and spiced oil.

Idli are soft, pillowy cakes from south India that are often made with lentils or rice flour, though this one features semolina. They’re usually made in specially designed moulds, but I use a cake tin to make life easier; you could also use lightly oiled round moulds or ramekins. Serve as a snack, for breakfast or as part of a larger spread at any time of day.

Prep 25 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4-6

For the idli
200g fine semolina
30g desiccated coconut
250g Greek-style yoghurt
3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
(ie, from 1-2 lemons)
Fine sea salt

½ tsp bicarbonate of soda

For the chutney
115g fresh coconut, roughly chopped
30g fresh coriander
120g Greek-style yoghurt
1 garlic clove
, peeled and crushed
1 green chilli (10g), roughly chopped (remove and discard the pith and seeds if you prefer less heat)
1 tbsp fresh lime juice (ie, from 1 lime)

For the spiced oil
3 tbsp olive oil, plus 1 tbsp extra for greasing
20g pine nuts
10g white sesame seeds
10 fresh curry leaves
1 tsp black mustard seeds
1½ tsp aleppo chilli flakes
, or mild chilli flakes
¼ tsp ground kashmiri chilli

First, make the idli batter. Put the semolina, desiccated coconut, yoghurt, lemon juice and 210ml cold water in a medium bowl, add three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt, mix well, cover with a plate and leave for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the chutney. Put the fresh coconut, coriander, yoghurt, garlic, green chilli, lime juice and a third of a teaspoon of salt in the small bowl of a food processor, blitz until almost smooth and vibrant green, then scrape into a small bowl.

Grease a 22cm round cake tin and line it with baking paper. Half-fill a steamer with water and bring to a rolling boil. Quickly stir the bicarb into the batter, then pour it into the tin, put it in the steamer and cover (the batter will start to bubble, so make sure you work quickly). Turn down the heat to medium and steam for 22-24 minutes, until the middle of the idli is set. Take off the heat, uncover and set aside forfive minutes. The top of the idli will initially look rather wet, but it will steam dry very quickly.

To make the spiced oil, pour the oil into a small frying pan on a medium heat, add the pine nuts and sesame seeds, and fry, stirring now and then, for two to three minutes, until lightly toasted. Stir in the curry leaves, cook for 30 seconds to a minute, until the leaves turn translucent, then take off the heat and stir in the mustard seeds, the chilli flakes and ground chilli, and an eighth of a teaspoon of salt.

Run a knife all around the edge of the idli and put a large plate on top. Quickly invert to release the idli from the tin, then cut into eight wedges. Spoon over half the oil and serve with the rest of the oil and the chutney in bowls on the side for dipping.

Lemony semolina and almond cookies

Yotam Ottolenghi’s lemony semolina and almond cookies.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s lemony semolina and almond cookies.

These biscuits showcase the texture of semolina when it’s used in baking: they’re somehow light but weighty all at the same time. Once made, they’ll keep in the biscuit tin for up to a week.

Prep 5-10 min
Cook 30 min
Makes 19

50g flaked almonds, lightly broken in a mortar
85g golden caster sugar
100g room-temperature unsalted butter
, cut into 1cm cubes
1 tbsp soured cream
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
1 tsp lemon zest
140g fine semolina
75g ground almonds
2 tbsp cacao nibs

Fine sea salt

Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4, and put the bashed flaked almonds in a medium bowl.

Put the sugar and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, then beat for 30 seconds, until pale and fluffy. Add the soured cream, egg, vanilla and lemon zest, and mix for a few seconds until well incorporated – don’t worry if it seems split: that’s all part of the plan.

Mix in the semolina, ground almonds, cacao nibs and a quarter-teaspoon of salt, and work with your hands until it comes together into a dough, taking care not to overwork it. Divide the dough and work it into 19 small balls weighing roughly 25g each. Working one by one, lightly roll each ball through the broken almonds, so they stick to the outside, then arrange them 2cm apart on a large oven tray lined with greaseproof paper. Bake for 22 minutes, until lightly golden and slightly firmed, then remove and transfer to a rack to cool completely.

This recipe finder will give you dinner ideas using what’s in your fridge

This recipe finder will give you dinner ideas using what’s in your fridge

We’ve all been there. It’s 6:30, you’ve just gotten home from work, and you stand in front of an open refrigerator, clueless and frustrated. You have no idea what to do with the random ingredients staring back at you. You’ve been using that beautiful brain all day long and now you have to put on an apron and come up with dinner ideas for you and your family? No thanks.

If you’ve ever found yourself in this situation, there’s now a site for that very problem. It’s called Gumbo, and it’s a total game-changer. Gumbo takes what you already have in your fridge, and generates tons of recipes using exactly those ingredients. No need for a last-minute trip to the grocery store.

man looking in fridge
Maskot/Getty Images

Let’s say you open your fridge and see, for example, raw chicken breast, oranges, soy sauce, honey, and green onions. Simply open the Gumbo app and select those items. With one click, dozens of recipes will pop up that feature those ingredients – Healthy Orange Chicken, Zesty Instant Pot Chicken Breasts, Whole Lemon and Honey Chicken Skewers — to name just a few.

No matter how random your assortment of refrigerator finds, Gumbo has a recipe for you. It also can offer recipes that only require one or two additional (yet common) ingredients. Let’s say you don’t include salt in your search. Chances are, you probably have salt at home. So, if there are recipes that call for everything you selected plus salt, Gumbo will offer that up as an option.

In addition to taking the burden of recipe creation off your plate, Gumbo will also save you money by keeping your food waste in check. A 2020 study from the American Journal of Agricultural Economics found that the average household in the United States wastes 31.9{d2b09b03d44633acb673e8080360919f91e60962656af8ade0305d5d8b7e4889} of its food, or about $1,866 annually. That’s an absolutely shocking statistic. But by knowing exactly what to do with the seemingly useless items in our fridge, Gumbo can greatly help cut back on such an enormously wasteful problem.

News of the new app has been spreading over Reddit like wildfire, and people are ecstatic, exclaiming, “Ok this is amazing! I have DREAMT of a site like this and am excited to give it a go! Here’s to (hopefully) less food waste!” and “This is freaking amazing! Thank you!!!”

Users of Reddit, we couldn’t agree more.

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I Spent a Day Following AI Recipes and It Was Both Delicious and Freaky

I Spent a Day Following AI Recipes and It Was Both Delicious and Freaky
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I was first introduced to the AI technology, ChatGPT, a few months ago – literally, I introduced myself through the computer.

“Hello! My name is Mallory!” I typed into the ChatGPT message box. 

It seemed appropriate to start off politely, especially when I was about to ask the AI robot for help. Having read all about AI’s skills and capabilities, I wanted to know if it could write up a day’s worth of thorough, accurate, and delicious recipes for me to try.

“Hello, Mallory! How can I assist you today?” ChatGPT responded to my inquiry right away.

And the experiment began.

What is ChatGPT?

ChatGPT, launched in November 2022, is an artificial intelligence model developed by OpenAI. Its conception was spurred on by the idea that AI will eventually increase workflow efficiency. In fact, a 2021 State of Conversational Marketing report states that 74 percent of corporations think AI tools will streamline productivity.

ChatGPT can be used for a plethora of applications (customer service, outlining, resume-building, and more), but it might surprise you to know AI could one day improve America’s food system. In 2021, a team of researchers from Cornell University, UC Davis, UC Berkeley, and the University of Illinois created The AI Institute for Next Generation Food Systems (AIFS). The institute’s goal is to develop an AI tool that will be nearly perfect at yielding healthy crops. The hope is that it would develop and implement the ideal planting, growing, and harvesting process. 

My ask of AI was slightly less ambitious.

Asking AI to Write Recipes 

The basics of ChatGPT are this: type your request into the message box and wait for a response. My plan was to test the AI’s culinary intelligence by asking it to write recipes that I could make that day for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Kimchi Fried Rice with Eggs
Fried rice with carrots, peas, kimchi, soy sauce and green onions. (Photo: DeepAI)

Breakfast

If I was going to test ChatGPT, I wasn’t going to make it easy. For breakfast, I was craving eggs, but also had a bit of kimchi leftover from last night’s dinner. So I asked ChatGPT to write me a breakfast recipe that included both eggs and kimchi. 

Here’s what it gave me:

Kimchi Fried Rice with Eggs

Ingredients

– 2 cups cooked white rice, preferably leftover and chilled

– 1 cup kimchi, roughly chopped

– 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

– 1 small onion, diced

– 2 cloves garlic, minced

– 1/2 cup frozen peas and carrots

– 2 Tbsp. soy sauce

– 2 green onions, thinly sliced

– 2 eggs, beaten

– Salt and pepper to taste

– Optional toppings: sliced avocado, chopped cilantro, sesame seeds

Instructions

1. Heat the vegetable oil in a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat.

2. Add the diced onion and minced garlic and sauté until fragrant and softened, about 2-3 minutes.

3. Add the chopped kimchi and frozen peas and carrots and stir to combine. Cook for 2-3 minutes until the vegetables are tender.

4. Add the chilled rice and soy sauce to the skillet and stir to combine. Cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the rice is heated through and slightly crispy.

5. Move the rice to one side of the skillet, and pour the beaten eggs onto the other side. Cook the eggs, stirring occasionally, until they’re scrambled and fully cooked.

6. Once the eggs are cooked, stir them into the fried rice.

7. Season the fried rice with salt and pepper to taste.

8. Garnish with sliced green onions and any optional toppings you like.

9. Serve the Kimchi Fried Rice with Eggs hot and enjoy!

How It Tasted

The recipe was a little more time-intensive than my usual breakfast but given that this was an experiment, I went with it. ChatGPT had me use one pan for everything, which I might not have done were I not following its instructions to a T. For example, I cooked the rice-kimchi mixture on one side of the pan and the eggs on the other side, carefully trying to keep them separate until it was time to combine everything.

If I had it my way, I would have used two pans—or at a minimum—wouldn’t have worried about keeping the eggs apart.

But in the end, the dish was spicy, savory, and overall a delicious way to start the day. I would make it again, but might use less kimchi (a little goes a long way) or use another pickled vegetable instead for variety. 

Brown Sugar Glazed Chicken with Tomato Salad
Chicken breast with a brown sugar and apple cider vinegar glaze. (Photo: DeepAI)

Lunch

Since breakfast went off without a hitch, I wanted to throw ChatGPT a more difficult challenge. While my lunches usually include salads, I opted to ask for something hot. I asked the AI to write me a recipe including brown sugar, chicken breast, and tomatoes. 

Here’s what it gave me:

Brown Sugar Glazed Chicken with Tomato Salad

Ingredients for Chicken:

– 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

– 2 Tbsp. olive oil

– 2 cloves garlic, minced

– 1/4 cup brown sugar

– 1/4 cup soy sauce

– 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

– Salt and pepper to taste

Ingredients for Tomato Salad:

– 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

– 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced

– 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

– 2 Tbsp. olive oil

– 1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

– Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions:

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

2. In a bowl, whisk together the olive oil, garlic, brown sugar, soy sauce, apple cider vinegar, salt, and pepper.

3. Place the chicken breasts in a baking dish and pour the brown sugar glaze over them, making sure they are evenly coated.

4. Bake the chicken for 20-25 minutes or until cooked through, basting occasionally with the glaze.

5. While the chicken is cooking, make the tomato salad. In a bowl, combine the cherry tomatoes, red onion, parsley, olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt, and pepper. Toss to combine.

6. Once the chicken is cooked, remove it from the oven and let it rest for a few minutes.

7. Serve the Brown Sugar Glazed Chicken with the Tomato Salad on the side. Enjoy!

How It Tasted:

I rarely touch the brown sugar in my kitchen cabinet, that’s why I suggested it to ChatGPT. The result? A sweet, tangy chicken dish. The combo of brown sugar and vinegar paired well and the salad was simple to make. Again, AI had met my challenge. If I was to change anything, it would be to use less soy sauce (perhaps a tablespoon) because the recipe already calls for salt to taste.

Peanut Butter and Artichoke Pasta with Sausage
Penne pasta with spicy sausage and a sweet peanut butter reduction sauce.

Dinner

Maybe it’s just human nature, but I really wanted to trip AI up. For dinner, I asked for a recipe that included peanut butter, artichokes, and sausage. 

Peanut Butter and Artichoke Pasta with Sausage

Ingredients

– 8 oz. penne pasta

– 2 Tbsp. olive oil

– 1/2 pound sausage, sliced

– 1 can (14 oz.) artichoke hearts, drained and chopped

– 2 cloves garlic, minced

– 1/2 cup chicken broth

– 1/4 cup creamy peanut butter

– 1/4 tsp. red pepper flakes

– Salt and pepper to taste

– Optional toppings: chopped parsley, grated parmesan cheese

Instructions

1. Cook the pasta according to package instructions until al dente. Drain and set aside.

2. In a large skillet, cook the sausage over medium-high heat until browned and cooked through, breaking it up into smaller pieces with a spoon as it cooks.

3. Add the minced garlic and red pepper flakes to the skillet and sauté for 1-2 minutes until fragrant.

4. Add the chopped artichoke hearts to the skillet and stir to combine.

5. In a separate bowl, whisk together the peanut butter and chicken or vegetable broth until smooth.

6. Add the peanut butter mixture to the skillet and stir to combine. Cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is heated through and slightly thickened.

7. Add the cooked pasta to the skillet and toss to coat the pasta with the sauce. If the sauce is too thick, add a splash of additional broth to thin it out.

8. Season the pasta with salt and pepper to taste.

9. Serve the Peanut Butter Sausage and Artichoke Pasta hot, garnished with chopped peanuts and parsley if desired. Enjoy!

How It Tasted:

This was the toughest recipe of the day—and it was pretty much a disaster. The peanut butter took a while to completely dissolve into the broth, and even then there were still pieces floating about. Thankfully, the hunks melted completely after tossing the mixture into the skillet.

True to the task, AI created a dish, but it wasn’t a cohesive (or even decent) one. The reality is that peanut butter and artichokes should never land in a dish together. ChatGPT is smart enough to generate a recipe, but it’s not attune to what actually tastes good.  

All in all, ChatGPT served up a pretty decent menu for the day. While it’s not a match for the talented chefs and culinary masterminds of the world, it was a fun experiment that landed me two meals that I’ll likely make again.

This Ramadan, Make These Satisfying Sehri Recipes for Any Morning

This Ramadan, Make These Satisfying Sehri Recipes for Any Morning

Whether it’s a box of nachos at a midnight movie showing or a bowl of cereal as a nightcap before bed, I’ve always loved eating in the middle of the night. During Ramadan, a spiritual month of fasting for many Muslims, there are two important mealtimes: Iftar, a meal to break fast at the end of the day, and Sehri, also called Suhoor, the predawn meal eaten before the fast begins. 

Depending on who you are and what your vibe is, the start of Ramadan can evoke big feelings. For some, excitement takes over: joyful community gatherings, the spirit of unity, and a spiritual refresh. For others, a bit of a knot in the stomach might start to form, mostly from the thought of not eating all day. Me? I’m an in-betweener. I need to eat, and I take the two meals I’m allotted during Ramadan very seriously. Last year I covered my tips on Iftar and how to host one with success. Now, let’s talk about meal number two, Sehri. 

Three types of Sehri come to mind: the one I wake up for, usually on weekdays, before work; the one I eat at 2 or 3 a.m. after a long night at the mosque; and the one I have when I’m hosting people late at night. Here’s what I like to cook for each of them.

The still-half-asleep Sehri

The first category calls for something breakfast-y, but more importantly something fast. I likely woke up just for this meal, and I want to be able to eat, pray, and head back to my bed all within a 30-minute window. If I take too long, I won’t be able to fall back to sleep. Enter: omelet roll-ups, peanut butter and jelly oats, and a fruity date smoothie. 

Omelet roll-ups were my grandmother’s secret to on-the-go (read: running late) breakfast. She’d make a crepe-like egg, layer it over a roti, and roll it up. My version uses tortillas because, much to my dismay, I don’t have fresh rotis lingering around. The PB&J oats are a way to sneak in some carbs and protein to keep you full, and they taste shockingly similar to their namesake thanks to brown sugar, which is often used in white bread. That fruity date smoothie is easy and nourishing, but most important, has caffeine to help ease the withdrawals during fasting.

The Late Night Sehri

The second category calls for something ultra-satiating. Chances are I’ve come home late from the mosque, and I have a long day ahead of me tomorrow. It’s the kind of meal you eat with the knowledge that the fast to come will be a hard one. 

All things considered, I don’t mind putting in a bit more effort for this one because I need it to be substantial. Sometimes I’ll repurpose leftovers, sometimes I’ll UberEats fried chicken or pizza, but my ideal situation is a classic tuna melt with lots of crunchy celery and red onion, served with Cape Cod chips doused in Frank’s RedHot and a dill pickle to seal the deal. It’s everything I want in a late-night meal: indulgent and ultra comforting. Don’t knock the kettle chips with hot sauce till you try it. 

Two halves of a classic tuna melt sandwich stacked on a plate with potato chips covered in Frank's red hot and a pickle...

Everything you love about the diner classic, complete with oil-packed tuna, crunchy celery, red onion and capers for bite, and your favorite well-melting cheese.

View Recipe

The let’s-hang-out-until-Fajr Sehri

The last category requires more of a party-friendly, appetizer situation. You’ve invited people over, convinced them a post-Iftar-hang is more fun, and now they’ll probably be at your place until the morning prayer (happens more often than you’d expect). Maybe it’s a planned Sehri party or post-Tarawih gathering, or maybe you’ve met someone at the mosque you haven’t seen in a while and it’s a spur-of-the-moment invitation. Regardless, you need to eat. 

For this one, I need something crowd-pleasing and filling, but not overwhelming to prepare. The answer: party wings. For this recipe, I reached for a box of tandoori masala, a popular smoky, bright South Asian spice blend usually combined with yogurt as the marinade for Tandoori Chicken. Bloom a spoonful of good tandoori masala with butter and combine it with lime juice, honey, and hot sauce for a finger-licking-good riff on the classic. Serve it over naan for soaking up any extra sauce, plus punchy herbs and tangy yogurt to mellow out the heat.  

Platter of tandoori buffalo chicken wings with a side bowl of salted yogurt on the side
Hot & Tangy Tandoori Buffalo Wings

These spiced wings feature both aromatic tandoori masala spice blend and Frank’s RedHot for a nod to classic Buffalo wings with a little flair.

View Recipe

26 Irish foods you need to try in Ireland | Food/Recipes

26 Irish foods you need to try in Ireland | Food/Recipes

There’s a lot more to Irish cuisine than stout and spuds, although both should be high on your must-try list when visiting the island of Ireland.

That rich green patchwork that greets the eye as your plane descends produces some of the world’s finest beef, lamb and dairy, while the gray-blue waters that froth against its shoreline are alive with fish and shellfish.

Seafood

Meat dishes

Bread, butter and cheese

The majestic spud

Treats and snacks

Guilty pleasures and old-school classics

Drinks

Atlanta chef shares Bengali recipes

Atlanta chef shares Bengali recipes

A Chow Club meal is made up of many small courses, and Kar Bhowmik‘s menu followed the pattern. A starter of dal puri was followed by a cup of soup of Bengali yellow split dal, and then a thali-like plate of bottle gourd with shrimp curry, dry Bombay duck curry, jackfruit curry, bottle gourd peel stir-fry and steamed rice. An elephant apple chutney was next and then dessert, sweet cottage cheese dumplings.

“I was excited to share my culture through my food. It’s a way we connect with each other, and a way we gain trust. And as we eat the food of different cultures, we find there are a lot of similarities. I may call it by a different name, or you may cook it in a different way, but we can understand the connections,” Kar Bhowmik said.

ExploreMeet the ethnic chefs building their businesses at metro Atlanta farmers markets

RECIPES

Sukanya Kar Bhowmik shared the recipes for three Bengali seafood specialties, two of which she served at her Chow Club dinner. The recipes are lengthy but not difficult, as the length comes from the many spices used in Bengali cooking, spices which give the dishes the name of “curry.” Each is served over rice, and Kar Bhowmik says either basmati or jasmine rice would be traditional.

Ingredients and possible substitutions

Please note where substitutions are suggested, they will bring a different nuance to the dishes. Kar Bhowmik buys her Bangladeshi groceries at Indian Bazaar on North Shallowford Road in Dunwoody and Bangladeshi Grocery Plus on Buford Highway in Doraville.

• Asafoetida, also called hing, is powder made from the tap root of a member of the celery family. It’s commonly used in savory dishes and Indian pickles, and has a distinctly pungent aroma and a sulfur-like flavor similar to alliums like garlic and onions. A mix of garlic powder and onion powder can be substituted.

• Black nigella seeds, also called kalonji or black cumin, are the seeds of the nigella plant and its beautiful blue or white flowers. Black sesame seeds or other dark seeds may be substituted to duplicate the look, but not the flavor.

• Bottle gourd, also known as calabash and called lauki in India, is a long pale green gourd with an edible but slightly tough skin. Frugal Bengali cooks sliver the skin and make a stir-fry by tossing it with matchsticks of potato and sauteing it in mustard oil along with nigella seeds, green finger chiles, poppy seeds and turmeric and seasoning it with curry powder. Zucchini can be used as a substitute for the bottle gourd flesh.

• Dry Bombay duck is a small fish, also called dried loitta, that is sun-dried to preserve it. It is a staple of Bengali cuisine and is available at some Bangladeshi grocery stores and widely available online.

• Garlic paste and ginger paste are available in the produce department of most grocery stores.

• Garam masala is a spice blend and each brand will vary just as curry powders do. Bengali garam masala is a blend of green cardamom, cinnamon and cloves. Most traditional grocery stores will have one or two varieties of garam masala available, each with different spices which may include coriander, cumin or black pepper. You can make your own Bengali garam masala by mixing equal parts ground cardamom, cinnamon and cloves.

• Ghee is clarified butter and is now widely available in grocery and natural food stores. You may also make your own by melting butter and reserving the clear fat, discarding the milk solids that sink to the bottom.

• Green finger chiles are moderately hot. Serrano peppers have a similar level of heat and could be substituted.

• Indian bay leaves are called tej patta, and the flavor is reminiscent of cinnamon and cloves, not at all like the vegetal flavor of American bay leaves. You may substitute a 2-inch piece of cinnamon stick.

• Indian red chili powder is made of powdered hot red chile peppers and packs a major punch. It is hot, but the heat doesn’t linger. Cayenne can be substituted, but the heat from cayenne tends to linger more in the throat, so consider reducing the quantity.

• Mustard oil is pressed from black mustard seeds and is commonly used for cooking and pickling. It is bright yellow and has a high smoke point and a mild mustard sharpness. It can sometimes be found in the international section of grocery stores. Vegetable oil can be substituted.

• Panch phoron is also called “Indian five spice” and is a mix of mustard, cumin, fennel, fenugreek and black nigella seeds. To substitute, use equal quantities of the seeds.

Chitol Macher Muithya (Bengali Fish Curry)

This dish of fish dumplings cooked in spicy onion-tomato gravy is a Bengali specialty made from chitol, a fish that is also called Indian featherback.

Here in the States, we can purchase frozen minced flesh of chitol from Bangladeshi grocers specializing in seafood, or substitute the flesh of a mild fish like tilapia or snapper.

As is traditional, this recipe is very spicy. Lower the heat by lowering the amounts of Indian red chili powder and fresh green finger chiles. You may see similar recipes that prepare the dumplings using mashed potatoes. Kar Bhowmik finds dumplings made without potatoes to be lighter and healthier.

Loitta Shurkir Jhal (Dry Bombay Duck Curry)

This recipe gets its curious name from the dried fish called “dry Bombay duck” that is used. There is no duck in the recipe, and there are many theories about how the fish got this name. The dry Bombay duck fresh out of the package has a very pungent odor, which dissipates as it is soaked. The cooked dry Bombay duck is not fishy tasting at all. If you prefer, make this delicious curry with 1-inch chunks of a meaty fish such as bass or mahi-mahi, adding them at the end and cooking, covered, until the fish is cooked through.

Lau Chingri (Bottle Gourd Curry with Shrimp)

When preparing this dish for her family, Kar Bhowmik uses unpeeled shrimp, and everyone happily consumes the shrimp along with their peel and tails.

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